1970 Dime Errors: Value Guide & Rare Varieties
Is your 1970 dime worth more than face value? Find values for the 1970-S No S Proof ($500–$6,000+), Reverse of 1968 FS-901, Doubled Die Reverse FS-802, and more. Expert diagnostics included.
Most 1970 dimes are worth face value, but the right error can be worth $500 to over $6,000.
- 🏆 1970-S No S Proof — Proof coin with missing mintmark (~2,200 made): $500–$6,000+
- 🔥 1970-D Reverse of 1968 (FS-901) — Proof-hub die used for business strikes: $15–$500+
- 🔍 1970-D Doubled Die Reverse FS-802 — Strong doubling on AMERICA lettering: $25–$400+
- 💎 1970-P MS66+ Full Bands — Gem uncirculated with crisp torch bands: $400+
⚠️ Common trap: Machine doubling is rampant on 1970 dimes and adds zero value. Only rounded, notched hub doubling counts — flat shelves are worthless.
1970 Roosevelt Dime Errors Error Checker
Check your coin for valuable errors and varieties
Values shown are typical retail estimates as of 2025-01, based on recent auction data from Heritage Auctions, GreatCollections, and eBay.
Error coin values vary significantly based on grade, eye appeal, and current market conditions.
Professional authentication (PCGS, NGC, ANACS) is strongly recommended for all suspected 1970-S No S Proofs and major die varieties.
Machine Doubling (flat, shelf-like) is extremely common on 1970 dimes and has NO numismatic premium value.
Polished or plated 1970-P business strikes are NOT genuine Proofs. Weight testing and surface examination are essential for No S authentication.
The 1970-S dime was struck as Proof only. Any S-mint coin lacking Proof characteristics should be examined for a counterfeit mintmark.
Pick up a 1970 Roosevelt dime and odds are it is worth exactly 10 cents — over a billion were struck between Philadelphia and Denver. But hidden in those billions are some of the most exciting modern rarities in American numismatics: a Proof coin that shipped from San Francisco without its mintmark, a business-strike coin accidentally made with a Proof-quality die, and doubled lettering visible under an ordinary magnifier. This 1970 dime value guide shows you exactly where to look, what each error looks like, and what it is worth in today's market.
1970 Roosevelt Dime: Key Specifications
| Attribute | Specification |
|---|---|
| Composition | Cupro-nickel clad — 75% Cu / 25% Ni outer layers bonded to a pure copper core. No silver. |
| Weight | 2.27 g (tolerance ±0.097 g) — critical benchmark for No S Proof authentication |
| Diameter | 17.90 mm |
| Edge | Reeded (118 reeds); copper core visible at the edge |
| Designer | John R. Sinnock — initials JS appear at the bust truncation on the obverse |
| Philadelphia mintage | 345,570,000 (no mintmark) |
| Denver mintage | 754,942,100 (D mintmark) |
| San Francisco mintage | 2,632,810 (S mintmark; Proof only, sold in annual Proof Sets) |
💡 Tools You Need
A 10× loupe for inspecting die varieties and a precision scale (reading to 0.01 g) for weight-testing suspected No S Proof coins. Both can be purchased online for under $20 combined.
The 1970 dime contains no silver and has negligible melt value. All value above face value comes from condition, die variety, or striking error. For standard retail values by grade, see the full 1970 dime value guide.
1970 Dime Errors: Quick Checks to Spot Value
Run your 1970 dime through these three checks before setting it aside. Each takes under a minute with a 10× loupe.
A genuine 1970-S Proof: deeply mirrored fields reflecting surroundings, frosted portrait and torch (Cameo contrast).
Check 1 — Missing Mintmark on a Proof Coin (Any Mint)
The obverse (front) near the date. A normal 1970-S Proof has a small S mintmark. If no S is present and the coin has a mirror-like reflective surface, you may have the famous No S Proof error.
Deeply mirrored fields that reflect like a glass mirror, frosted raised devices (the Cameo effect), sharp squared-off rims from high-pressure striking, weight of exactly 2.27 g (±0.097 g), and zero trace of an S mintmark.
A regular 1970-P business strike, which also has no mintmark but has satin or cartwheel luster — never a true mirror finish. Polishing removes metal and flattens details; a genuine Proof has MORE detail than a business strike, not less.
Check 2 — Reverse of 1968 FS-901 (1970-D Only)
The torch flame on the reverse. Under 5×–10× magnification, examine the internal modeling of the flame carefully.
Two distinct deep vertical valleys cutting through the flame, creating a sharp three-part (tripartite) appearance. The overall reverse — leaves, bands, and lettering — is noticeably crisper than a standard 1970-D, thanks to its Proof-hub lineage.
A normal 1970-D reverse has a soft, mushy flame with no clear internal valleys. Even a well-struck normal die will lack the deep valleys that are unmistakable on the FS-901.
Check 3 — Doubled Die Reverse FS-802 / FS-801 (1970-D Only)
Reverse lettering — especially UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. Focus on the serifs (the small feet at letter stroke ends) for notching and widening.
Rounded, bulbous secondary letter images that ADD to letter width, with notching at serif corners. FS-802 shows the strongest spread to the West/Southwest on AMERICA and is visible at 5× magnification.
Machine doubling (MD) is flat, shelf-like, and SUBTRACTS from letter width. MD is extremely common on 1970 dimes and adds zero value. If the doubling looks smeared or stepped, it is worthless MD.
Trap Check — Machine Doubling (NOT Valuable)
Date, lettering, and design elements on either side of the coin. Extremely common on 1970 dimes due to high-speed presses and worn equipment of the era.
A flat, shelf-like secondary image. The design element appears smeared or stepped sideways. The shelf sits at the same height as the surrounding coin field.
True hub doubled dies show rounded, raised secondary images with notched serifs that ADD to letter width. Machine doubling is flat and SUBTRACTS from width. When in doubt, compare side-by-side with a documented DDR example before getting excited.
1970 Dime Values: All Varieties at a Glance
Standard 1970 Dime Values by Mint
| Coin | Circulated | MS63 | MS65 | Top Grade (MS67 FB / PR69) |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1970-P (no mark) | Face value | $2 | $10 | $400+ (MS67 FB) |
| 1970-D | Face value | $2 | $10 | $150+ (MS67 FB) |
| 1970-S Proof | $1–$5 (impaired) | $5 (PR65) | $10 (PR67) | $30 (PR69); Deep Cameo can double values |
FB = Full Bands (crisp, fully separated horizontal bands on the torch). MS = Mint State (uncirculated). DCAM = Deep Cameo (heavy frost on Proof devices). Both designations significantly increase value.
1970 Dime Error and Variety Master Table
| Error / Variety | FS # | Mint | Rarity | Low Grade | High Grade |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| No S Proof | — | S | R5 (Rare) | $500 (impaired) | $6,000+ (PR69 DCAM) |
| Reverse of 1968 FS-901 | FS-901 | D | R3 (Scarce) | $15 (AU) | $500+ (MS66+ FB) |
| DDR FS-802 | FS-802 | D | R4 (Scarce) | $25 (AU) | $400+ (MS66) |
| DDR FS-801 | FS-801 | D | R4 (Scarce) | $20 (AU) | $150+ (MS65) |
| Clipped Planchet | — | All | R3 | $15 | $100+ |
| Off-Center Strike | — | All | R3 | $20 | $150+ |
Rarity scale: R1 (Common) to R8 (Unique). Values are retail estimates as of early 2025 based on Heritage Auctions, GreatCollections, and eBay data. Off-center strike reaches maximum value only when the 1970 date remains visible.
1970 Dime Jackpots: The Varieties Worth Real Money
1970-S No S Proof Roosevelt Dime
Left: Normal 1970-S Proof with S mintmark. Right: The No S error — same Proof finish, mintmark completely absent.
Origin and Background
In 1970, mintmarks were not part of the master hub — they were hand-punched individually into each working die by Mint employees using a mallet and a small steel punch. One or more dies intended for the San Francisco Assay Office received their full Proof treatment (mirror-polished fields, frosted relief devices) but were accidentally shipped before the S punch was applied. That die went into a press at San Francisco and struck an estimated 2,200 coins that technically should not exist: a Proof dime with no mintmark. Because these coins were sealed in annual Proof Sets, the survival rate is extremely high — many examples are still believed to be trapped in unopened sets today.
How to Identify
- Mirrored fields: The flat background areas must reflect like a hand mirror. Hold the coin a few inches from your face — you should see your reflection clearly. Business strikes have satin or cartwheel luster, never a true mirror.
- Frosted devices: Roosevelt's portrait, the torch, and the date should have a frosty, textured finish (the Cameo effect) that contrasts sharply with the mirrored fields.
- Sharp squared rims: Proof coins are struck at high pressure — often twice — producing crisp right-angle rims rather than the rounded, beveled rims of business strikes.
- Standard weight: Weigh the coin on a precise scale. It must read 2.27 g (±0.097 g). A plated or electroplated fake often exceeds 2.30 g.
- No trace of an S: Under magnification, examine the mintmark area for any disturbed metal, tool marks, or raised ghost indicating a removed or filled mintmark.
Magnified date area on the No S Proof. The mintmark position is completely empty with no trace of an S.
False Positives to Avoid
The most common fake is a regular 1970-P business strike that has been polished, buffed, or electroplated to mimic Proof surfaces. The critical tell: polishing removes metal and flattens design details, whereas a genuine Proof has sharper, deeper relief than any business strike. Also watch for tooled coins where an S was removed — disturbed metal or gouge marks in the mintmark area expose the alteration under a loupe. A plated coin will also frequently weigh more than 2.30 g.
Market Values and Auction Record
- $500+ — Impaired or damaged example (rarity still commands a floor)
- $862.50 — In original 1970 Proof Set (Heritage Auctions, 2010)
- $1,610 — PR69 (Heritage Auctions, 2003)
- $6,000+ — PR69 Deep Cameo — the pinnacle designation
NGC Census lists 284 graded examples as of recent reports, confirming the coin is rare but obtainable — unlike the unique 1975 No S dime. PCGS CoinFacts pages exist for both the standard No S and the Cameo designation.
1970-D Reverse of 1968 (FS-901)
Normal 1970-D flame (left, soft and blended) vs. FS-901 (right) showing two sharp vertical valleys dividing the flame into three crisp sections.
Origin and Background
In the late 1960s, the Mint maintained separate master hubs for business-strike and Proof coinage. The Proof hub produced crisper, higher-relief design details. Through a logistics error during die preparation, a reverse working die derived from the 1968-S Proof hub was sent to Denver and installed in a circulation press. The result is a 1970-D dime that bears the sculptural quality of a Proof reverse — most visibly in the torch flame — while otherwise looking like a standard business strike. Every coin struck by that die carries the variety.
How to Identify
- The flame valleys (primary diagnostic): Under 5×–10× magnification, look for two distinct deep vertical valleys cutting through the torch flame, dividing it into three cleanly separated sections. The normal 1970-D flame is soft and blended with no clear internal separation.
- Overall reverse sharpness: The olive leaves, torch bands, and lettering are noticeably crisper and more deeply sculpted than on a standard 1970-D reverse.
- Lettering: UNITED STATES OF AMERICA may appear more squared and deeply impressed compared to normal business-strike lettering.
False Positives to Avoid
A well-struck standard 1970-D die may show above-average detail, but it will never show the two deep valleys in the flame. The FS-901 has a distinctive Proof-hub sculptural quality that is unmistakable once you have studied a genuine example. Reference images and diagnostics are documented at Error-Ref.com.
Market Values
- $15–$40 — Circulated (AU grade)
- $50–$150 — Mint State (MS63–MS65)
- $300–$500+ — Registry quality (MS66+ with Full Bands)
💡 Cherrypicking Opportunity
Because the flame diagnostic requires magnification and specific knowledge, the FS-901 is frequently overlooked by generalist dealers. Searching dealer inventories and bulk rolls of 1970-D dimes is a legitimate strategy for finding undervalued examples.
1970-D Doubled Die Reverse — FS-802 and FS-801
A Doubled Die Reverse (DDR) occurs during die manufacturing. The hub (master die) must press the design into a working die multiple times. If the die shifts position between presses, a doubled image is permanently etched into the die — and every coin struck from that die will show the same doubling. The 1970-D produced two catalogued DDR varieties listed in the Cherrypickers Guide to Rare Die Varieties.
Normal AMERICA lettering (left) vs. DDR FS-802 (right) showing strong West/Southwest spread with rounded secondary letters and notched serifs.
FS-802 (CONECA DDR-004) — The Stronger Variety
- Class of doubling: Class I (Rotated Hub) — a relatively uniform spread across affected elements.
- Primary spread: Strong doubling on UNITED STATES OF AMERICA, with the spread running to the West/Southwest.
- Key diagnostic: Notching at the corners of letter serifs in AMERICA. ONE DIME shows moderate doubling as well.
- Confirming die marker: A tiny curved die scratch connects the bottom-right stand of the F in OF to the crossbar — visible under magnification and unique to this die.
- Visibility: Strong enough to detect at 5× magnification.
FS-802 Values: AU–MS64 $25–$80 | MS65 $150–$250 | MS66 $400+
DDR FS-801 on STATES OF AMERICA showing equidistant West/South spread (lighter than FS-802).
FS-801 (CONECA DDR-001) — The Related Variety
- Class of doubling: Class V (Pivoted Hub) — spread is equidistant to the West and South, rather than concentrated West/Southwest as in FS-802.
- Primary spread: Visible on STATES OF AMERICA, with lighter spread on the ED of UNITED.
- Eye appeal: Generally less dramatic than FS-802, trading for slightly lower premiums.
FS-801 Values: AU–MS64 $20–$50 | MS65 $100–$150+
⚠️ Critical Warning: Machine Doubling is Rampant on 1970-D Dimes
Machine doubling (MD) produces a flat, shelf-like secondary image that SUBTRACTS from letter width. True hub doubling produces rounded, raised images that ADD to letter width with notched serifs at the corners. If it looks like a flat, smeared shelf, it is MD and worth face value only. Compare your coin to documented DDR reference images before drawing conclusions.
Striking Errors: Clipped Planchets and Off-Center Strikes
Beyond die varieties (which appear on every coin from a given die), the 1970 dime occasionally surfaces with random mechanical errors — unique one-of-a-kind events.
Clipped Planchet
Crescent-shaped clip with copper core exposed at the clipped edge. Note rim weakness directly opposite the clip (Blakesley Effect).
The metal strip fed incorrectly through the blanking press, so the punch overlapped a previously punched hole, creating a crescent-shaped void. Authenticate by checking for the Blakesley Effect — a weakness in the rim directly opposite the clip caused by lack of back-pressure during edge upsetting.
Values: Small clip $15–$30 | Large or multiple clips $50–$100+
Off-Center Strike
Approximately 40–50% off-center strike. The date remains visible — critical for maximum value.
The planchet was not properly seated in the collar when the dies struck, so the design appears shifted with a blank crescent of metal showing. The date must remain visible to reach maximum value — a dateless off-center is worth a fraction of a dated one.
Values: 10–20% off $20–$40 | 50%+ with date $75–$150+
1970 Dime Traps: Why Most 'Errors' Disappoint
The 1970 dime generates more false excitement than almost any other modern date. These three traps fool beginners and experienced collectors alike.
Machine doubling (left) creates a flat shelf that subtracts from letter width. True hub doubling (right) adds rounded secondary letters with notched serifs.
⚠️ Trap 1: Machine Doubling (the Most Common Mistake)
Doubled lettering, date, or design elements on one or both sides. Looks promising at first glance — you think you have found a valuable doubled die.
Loose or worn die-holder equipment allows the die to shift slightly during the strike. The second contact produces a flat, smeared impression in the coin surface. This is mechanical damage to the coin — not a die variety.
- The secondary image is flat (sits at field level), not raised and rounded.
- The doubling SUBTRACTS from letter width rather than adding to it.
- Serif corners are smooth — there is no notching.
- Machine doubling was especially rampant in 1970 due to the high-speed presses and worn equipment of the era.
Value: Face value only. Zero numismatic premium.
⚠️ Trap 2: Polished 1970-P Mistaken for a No S Proof
A no-mintmark 1970 dime with a shiny, reflective surface. You wonder if it could be the famous No S Proof worth $500+.
Regular 1970-P business strikes are polished with a cloth, tumbler, or Dremel tool to create artificial shine. Some are electroplated. Online sellers sometimes advertise these as rare Proofs.
- Polishing REMOVES metal and flattens design details. A genuine Proof has MORE relief detail than a business strike, never less.
- Business strikes have satin or cartwheel luster — never mirror-flat fields. A genuine Proof reflects like a glass mirror.
- Weigh it: plated coins frequently exceed 2.30 g. Standard weight is 2.27 g (±0.097 g).
- Genuine Proofs have sharp, right-angle squared rims. Business strikes have soft, rounded rims.
Value: Face value only if a polished business strike.
⚠️ Trap 3: Counterfeit or Added S Mintmark
A coin marked 1970-S that does not look like a Proof — it has satin or dull luster rather than mirror fields — or an S mintmark that looks subtly different from other examples.
The 1970-S dime was struck as Proof only. Any S-mint coin lacking Proof characteristics is suspect. A common alteration is adding a fake S to a 1970-P business strike to increase apparent value.
- Examine the field immediately around the S under magnification. A genuine Mint-punched S shows smooth, undisturbed surrounding fields. An added S will show tool marks, disturbed metal, or adhesive residue.
- The coin must also display genuine Proof characteristics (mirror fields, frosted devices, squared rims).
- When in doubt, submit to PCGS, NGC, or ANACS for professional authentication.
Value: Face value only if altered. The genuine 1970-S Proof is worth $5–$30 in standard grades.
1970 Dime Grading: How Condition Drives Value
For most 1970 dimes, grade has only a modest effect on value — a circulated coin and an MS63 are both close to face value. But for key varieties and Proofs, grade becomes critically important.
| Error Type | Grade Sensitivity | Key Insight |
|---|---|---|
| No S Proof | Low overall; high at the top | Even an impaired No S Proof is worth $500+. But the gap from PR67 to PR69 DCAM represents a $4,000+ difference — top-grade examples trade at a substantial premium. |
| FS-901 Rev of 1968 | Very high — exponential | A circulated example is a $15 curiosity. An MS66 Full Bands example is a $500+ registry trophy. Grade and Full Bands together are what drives this variety to its ceiling. |
| DDR FS-802 / FS-801 | Medium | Doubling must be visible and sharp. Higher grades make the doubling pop and increase value significantly. The die marker (curved scratch on FS-802) must also be present for definitive attribution. |
| Off-Center Strike | Variable | Date visibility matters more than numeric grade. A 50%+ off-center with visible date at MS60 outperforms a 10% off-center at MS65. |
Weak-strike torch (left) with bands merged together vs. Full Bands designation (right) showing crisp, fully separated horizontal lines.
The Full Bands (FB) designation is awarded when the two sets of horizontal bands on the torch are completely and sharply separated with no merging. At Philadelphia, where striking pressure was notoriously low in the 1970 era, a true MS67 FB is genuinely scarce and commands $400+. At Denver, where strikes were generally better, MS67 FB examples exist but still carry a meaningful premium.
1970 Dime Authentication: When to Get It Certified
Not every 1970 dime needs professional grading. Here is when certification is worth the cost and effort:
- Any suspected No S Proof: Submit immediately to PCGS, NGC, or ANACS. The label itself adds significant value and eliminates counterfeit risk for future buyers. Do NOT clean the coin or handle it with bare hands — even fingerprints can cause surface damage under grading-service microscopes.
- FS-901 or DDR varieties in MS65+: Registry set collectors require certified, slabbed coins. A certified MS66 FB can sell for three to five times what the same coin brings raw.
- Striking errors worth $75+: Significant off-center strikes and large clipped planchets benefit from certification for buyer confidence and market liquidity.
💡 Which Service to Use
For the No S Proof, PCGS and NGC carry the deepest market recognition and highest resale premiums. Both services also attribute recognized Cherrypickers Guide varieties (FS-901, FS-801, FS-802) on their labels. ANACS is another respected option, particularly for error coins. Check current turnaround times and fees on each service website before submitting — fees and tiers vary.
For referrals to reputable dealers specializing in Roosevelt dime errors and varieties, consult the PCGS or NGC authorized dealer directories available on their respective websites.
1970 Dime Errors: Frequently Asked Questions
How do I know if my 1970 dime is the rare No S Proof?
Three things must all be present: (1) The S mintmark is completely absent near the date. (2) The coin has deeply mirrored fields that reflect like a glass mirror — not satin or cartwheel luster. (3) The raised design elements (portrait, torch, date) have a frosty, textured finish contrasting with the mirrors (the Cameo effect). Also confirm standard weight of 2.27 g and sharp squared rims. If all criteria are met, seek professional authentication immediately.
How many 1970-S No S Proof dimes were made?
The Mint estimated approximately 2,200 were struck before the error was caught or the die run completed. NGC Census reports show 284 graded examples as of recent data, confirming the coin is rare but obtainable for collectors with the budget — unlike the unique 1975 No S dime, of which only two are known. Many 1970 No S Proofs are still believed to be sealed in unopened Proof Sets.
What is the Reverse of 1968 on a 1970-D dime?
It is catalogued as FS-901 — a die variety created when a reverse working die derived from the 1968-S Proof hub was accidentally used for Denver business-strike production. The key diagnostic is the torch flame: the FS-901 shows two distinct deep vertical valleys creating three clearly separated sections, while the standard 1970-D flame is soft and blended with no clear valleys. The variety is listed and described in the Cherrypickers Guide to Rare Die Varieties.
Is the doubled lettering on my 1970 dime a valuable doubled die?
Probably not — machine doubling is extremely common on 1970 dimes and adds zero value. Machine doubling (MD) produces a flat, shelf-like secondary image that subtracts from letter width and has smooth serif corners. True hub doubled dies (like FS-802 and FS-801) show rounded, raised secondary images that add to letter width with notched serifs at letter corners. If it looks like a flat smear, it is MD and worth face value only.
Does the 1970 dime contain silver?
No. The U.S. Mint eliminated silver from dimes with the Coinage Act of 1965. The 1970 Roosevelt dime is composed of outer layers of 75% copper and 25% nickel bonded to a pure copper core. Its melt value is negligible. All value above face value comes entirely from condition, die variety, or error status — not metal content.
What makes a 1970-P dime worth collecting?
Standard circulated examples are worth face value. The path to real value is high Mint State grade with the Full Bands (FB) designation — meaning the two sets of horizontal bands on the torch are crisp and fully separated. Philadelphia struck with notoriously weak pressures in 1970, making genuine MS66 FB examples scarce and worth $400+. Always check a 1970-P for Proof characteristics too: if it has true mirror fields, it could be the No S Proof.
Should I clean my 1970 dime before submitting it for grading?
Never. Cleaning a coin — even gentle wiping with a soft cloth — leaves microscopic hairlines visible under a grading-service microscope and will result in a Details grade designation, which dramatically reduces value. Store your coin in a protective holder, handle it only by the edge, and submit it exactly as found.
1970 Dime: Sources and Methodology
Values in this guide are retail estimates based on auction results from Heritage Auctions, GreatCollections, and eBay as of early 2025. Error diagnostics and variety data draw from the following primary sources:
- PCGS CoinFacts — 1970 No S Proof Roosevelt Dime
- PCGS CoinFacts — 1970 No S Cameo Proof
- NGC Coin Explorer — 1970 No S Proof Census
- Error-Ref.com — 1970 Transitional Reverse of 1968 (FS-901)
- DM Rare Coins — The DDRs of 1970-D (FS-801, FS-802)
- PCGS CoinFacts — 1970-D Roosevelt Dime
- PCGS CoinFacts — 1970-P Roosevelt Dime
Values fluctuate with market conditions and should be treated as estimates. Professional authentication by PCGS, NGC, or ANACS is recommended for all high-value specimens. The 1970-S dime was Proof-only; any S-mint coin lacking Proof characteristics should be examined for an added mintmark.
A note on images: To help illustrate coin diagnostics and rare varieties — especially complex errors that are difficult to describe in text alone — this guide uses AI-generated images. All written values, diagnostics, and variety attributions have been manually reviewed against the cited sources above. While our editorial team works to ensure every image is accurate and helpful, AI-generated illustrations may occasionally misrepresent fine details. If you spot any discrepancy between an image and its written description, please contact us or leave a comment below — we review all feedback and correct errors promptly. Numismatic knowledge is a community effort, and your input helps us build a more accurate resource for everyone.
