1973 Dime Errors: Value Guide & Rare Varieties
Is your 1973 dime worth more than 10 cents? Full value guide covering wrong planchet errors ($2,880 auction record), off-center strikes, missing clad layers, Full Bands, and RPM varieties. Updated 2025.
Most 1973 Roosevelt Dimes are worth face value (10¢), but rare manufacturing errors can fetch $1,500–$3,000 or more at auction.
- • Wrong Planchet (Liberia cent): $1,500–$3,000 — a PR64 sold for $2,880
- • 65%+ Off-Center Strike with readable date: $1,000+ — a 1973-D sold for $1,516.50
- • Missing Clad Layer: $100–$300 (must weigh under 2.0g)
- • MS67 Full Bands (FB/FT): $250–$500+ on Philadelphia and Denver strikes
- • PR70 Deep Cameo Proof: $1,000+ — one sold for $7,050 in 2014
⚠️ Biggest trap: a 1973 dime with no mint mark is a normal Philadelphia coin — there is NO authenticated 1973 No-S Proof dime. A copper-colored dime that weighs 2.27g is environmental damage, not a mint error.
1973 Roosevelt Dime Errors Error Checker
Check your coin for valuable errors and varieties
Values shown are typical retail estimates as of 2025-01 and may fluctuate with market conditions.
Error coin values vary significantly based on grade, eye appeal, and certification by PCGS or NGC.
Professional authentication is recommended for any coin suspected to be a valuable error or variety.
Machine doubling (flat, shelf-like) is NOT a doubled die and has no numismatic value. There are no major Cherrypicker-listed Doubled Dies for the 1973 dime.
A copper-colored 1973 dime that weighs 2.27 grams is environmental damage, not a mint error.
There is NO authenticated 1973 No-S Proof dime. A 1973 dime with no mint mark is a standard Philadelphia business strike worth face value.
Grading costs ($30–$40 per coin) should be considered before submitting coins valued under $50.
Pull a 1973 Roosevelt Dime from your change jar and it almost certainly looks ordinary — and it almost certainly is. Over 770 million were struck across three mints that year. But a small number escaped the Philadelphia, Denver, and San Francisco presses with dramatic manufacturing defects: a proof coin stamped onto the wrong country's planchet, a dime struck so far off-center that only a crescent of metal bears the design, a coin missing an entire outer metal layer. These anomalies have sold for thousands. This guide tells you exactly what to look for, what to weigh, and what to ignore. For baseline values on standard specimens, visit our 1973 Roosevelt Dime value guide — then come back here to hunt for the good stuff.
1973 Roosevelt Dime: Specs, Mintage & What You Have
Knowing the standard specifications is your first diagnostic tool. Any coin that deviates significantly from these numbers deserves closer attention — or is simply damaged.
1973 Roosevelt Dime obverse (left) with mint mark location indicated, and reverse (right) with torch bands highlighted.
| Specification | Standard Value |
|---|---|
| Composition | Copper-nickel clad — 75% Cu / 25% Ni outer layers bonded to a pure copper core |
| Weight | 2.268 grams (tolerance ± 0.09g) — the most critical error-detection metric |
| Diameter | 17.91 mm (± 0.1 mm) |
| Thickness | 1.35 mm |
| Edge | Reeded (118 reeds) — smooth edge signals a broadstrike error |
| Magnetism | Non-magnetic |
| Designer | John R. Sinnock — initials JS appear at the base of the bust on the obverse |
Mintage by Facility
| Mint | Mint Mark | Type | Mintage |
|---|---|---|---|
| Philadelphia | None | Business Strike (circulation) | 315,670,000 |
| Denver | D | Business Strike (circulation) | 455,032,426 |
| San Francisco | S | Proof only (collector sets) | 2,760,339 |
ℹ️ No Mint Mark = Philadelphia. That Is Normal.
Philadelphia did not add a P mint mark to dimes until 1980. A 1973 dime with no letter above the date is a standard business strike — not a rare error. The mint mark, if present, sits on the obverse (front) directly above the date. The San Francisco S-mint in 1973 produced only proof coins for collector sets — finding one in pocket change is unusual and worth verifying.
For a complete breakdown of standard grade values and market pricing for non-error specimens, see our 1973 Roosevelt Dime value guide.
1973 Roosevelt Dime Quick Checks: Do You Have Something Valuable?
Work through each check below in order. You need two inexpensive tools for some of these: a 10x magnifying loupe and a digital scale accurate to 0.01 grams. Green cards = potentially valuable. Red cards = common traps.
Check 1: Is Your S-Mint Coin Copper-Red Instead of Silver? (S-Mint Only)
The overall color of the coin and its weight. A genuine 1973-S wrong-planchet error looks copper-red — like a penny — instead of the normal silver-clad color.
A 1973-S Proof dime design struck on a copper or bronze planchet: wrong color, weight significantly different from 2.268g, and possibly missing the reeded edge or having the wrong diameter.
Environmental damage. Soil chemicals and acid can turn any clad dime copper-red or brown. If the coin weighs 2.27 grams, it is damaged — not an error. The wrong planchet test starts and ends with the scale.
Check 2: Is a Chunk of the Design Missing? (Off-Center Strike)
The overall layout. An off-center coin shows a blank crescent-shaped area where the die never contacted the planchet — a portion of the coin is simply empty.
A clearly blank crescent with design visible on the remainder. Value depends heavily on two things: (1) how far off-center (50%+ is most valuable) and (2) whether the date — 1973 — is still readable. A 1973-D struck 65% off-center with visible date and D mint mark sold for $1,516.50.
A coin with weak or faded detail (die deterioration). A misaligned die (MAD) shows the full design slightly shifted — not truly absent. Post-mint damage and novelty cut coins look similar but have sharp, unnatural edges.
Check 3: One Side Copper, One Side Silver? (Missing Clad Layer)
Flip the coin and examine both sides plus the edge. A missing clad layer coin has one copper-red side (the exposed copper core) and one normal silver side. The edge shows asymmetric layering.
One copper side AND a weight of 1.7–1.9 grams (well under the standard 2.268g). The strike on the copper side is usually weaker than normal because the thinner planchet sat differently in the die cavity.
Environmental toning or acid damage. If the coin looks copper but weighs 2.27g, it is damaged — not an error. Weigh before drawing any conclusions.
Check 4: Torch Bands Fully Separated? (Uncirculated P & D Only)
The reverse (back) of the coin. The torch in the center has horizontal bands crossing vertical rods. Focus on where the bands meet the rods under a 10x loupe.
Both upper and lower band sets show two fully separated, distinct parallel lines with a clear valley between them at every point — no bridging, no merging anywhere. PCGS calls this Full Torch (FT); NGC calls it Full Bands (FB). The coin must also be uncirculated.
Bands that appear separated at 5x magnification but merge under a proper 10x loupe. Most 1973 dimes fail this test — the hard clad planchets resisted full metal flow into the band cavities. This scarcity is exactly why Full Bands specimens command such large premiums.
Check 5: Double S on the Mint Mark? (S-Mint Proofs Only)
The S mint mark above the date on the obverse. Use a 10x loupe and look for a secondary S poking out of the top of the primary S.
A distinct second S impression extending upward (north) from the top of the primary S. This is the 1973-S RPM-001 — a Repunched Mint Mark (RPM), caused when the hand punch struck the die twice in a slightly different position. The secondary impression shows the full S shape, not just fuzz.
Die deterioration or strike doubling on the mint mark. These create fuzzy or shelf-like outlines — not a clean second letter impression. Compare to confirmed RPM-001 photographs at Variety Vista before concluding.
Check 6: Wider Than Normal With a Smooth Edge? (Broadstrike)
The edge and overall diameter. A broadstrike is noticeably wider than a normal dime (over 17.91 mm) and has a smooth edge instead of the normal ridged (reeded) surface.
Full centered design, expanded diameter, smooth edge, and flat or absent rim. Compare diameter against a normal dime using calipers or a ruler.
A coin with a worn rim from circulation (it still has reeding at the base). An off-center strike — which has a blank area. A broadstrike shows the complete, centered design just spread outward.
Check 7: A Bite Taken Out of the Edge? (Clipped Planchet)
The edge of the coin for a curved or straight section of missing metal. Then check the rim on the exact opposite side of the coin.
A genuine clip has a smooth curved bite AND the Blakesley Effect: the rim directly opposite the clip is weak or flat, because the upsetting mill (the machine that forms the rim before striking) could not work properly without a complete planchet. This is the authentication key.
Post-mint damage from pliers, a vise, or a drill press. PMD clips have sharp, irregular edges and a normal, strong rim on the opposite side — no Blakesley Effect. If the rim opposite is strong, the damage was made after minting.
Trap Check: Doubling on the Date or Letters?
The date, LIBERTY, IN GOD WE TRUST, and mint mark — anywhere a secondary image appears alongside the primary design.
Nothing. There are no major Cherrypicker-listed Doubled Dies for the 1973 Roosevelt Dime. Virtually all doubling found on 1973 dimes is Machine Doubling (MD) — flat, shelf-like, and worth face value only.
True Doubled Die (rare, valuable): rounded secondary impression, split serifs on letters, letters appear thicker. Machine Doubling (common, worthless): flat and shelf-like steps, letters appear thinner and sheared.
Trap Check: No Mint Mark — Is It a Rare "No S" Error?
Above the date. If there is no letter, check whether the coin has deep mirror proof surfaces and sharp, square rims.
Nothing in 1973. A no-mint-mark dime is a standard Philadelphia coin — 315,670,000 of them exist. There is NO authenticated 1973 No-S Proof dime. Genuine No-S errors occurred in 1968, 1970, 1975, and 1983 — not 1973.
A Philadelphia coin has no letter, standard (non-mirror) fields, and rounded rims. If your coin matches that description, it is worth 10 cents.
1973 Roosevelt Dime Error Values: At-a-Glance Reference Table
Standard Values — Business Strikes
| Grade / Condition | 1973-P (Philadelphia) | 1973-D (Denver) |
|---|---|---|
| Circulated (G4–AU58) | $0.10 | $0.10 |
| MS63 (Choice Uncirculated) | $0.50 | $0.50 |
| MS65 (Gem Uncirculated) | $10.00 | $15.00 |
| MS67 (Superb Gem) | $60–$100 | $120+ |
| MS67 Full Bands (FB/FT) | $250+ | $300–$500+ |
1973-S Proof Values
| Grade / Condition | 1973-S (San Francisco Proof) |
|---|---|
| Circulated / Impaired Proof | $1.00–$2.00 |
| PR65 Gem Proof | $5.00 |
| PR69 Deep Cameo (DCAM) | $8.00–$12.00 |
| PR70 Deep Cameo (DCAM) | $1,000+ (2014 auction: $7,050) |
PR69 DCAM is abundant because 2,760,339 proof sets were sold. PR70 is extraordinarily rare — a coin that emerged from the Mint and set packaging without a single microscopic flaw. The 2014 PCGS PR70DCAM sale of $7,050 illustrates that premium.
Error & Variety Values
| Error Type | Mint | Rarity | Value Range | Auction Record |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Wrong Planchet (Liberia cent) | S | Rare | $1,500–$3,000 | $2,880 |
| Off-Center 50%+ with date | All | Scarce | $1,000+ | $1,516.50 |
| Missing Clad Layer | All | Scarce | $100–$300 | $41 (2005) |
| Full Bands MS67 (FB/FT) | P, D | Scarce | $250–$500+ | — |
| RPM-001 S/S North | S | Uncommon | +$20–$50 over proof | — |
| Broadstrike | All | Uncommon | $10–$50 | — |
| Clipped Planchet | All | Uncommon | $15–$30 | — |
| Off-Center minor (under 20%, no date) | All | Common | $20–$50 | — |
Values shown reflect certified (PCGS/NGC) examples unless noted. Raw uncertified coins rarely achieve guide prices for high-grade or error specimens. Grading service fees (~$30–$40 per coin) should factor into your submission decision.
1973 Roosevelt Dime Valuable Errors & Varieties: Detailed Guide
Each entry below covers exactly what to look for, how to confirm authenticity, and documented market values. Never clean a potential error coin — handling it only by the edges before professional examination.
1973-S Proof Struck on Wrong Planchet (Liberia Cent or 10-Cent)
Normal 1973-S Proof dime (left, silver) vs. wrong-planchet error struck on a Liberia cent planchet (right, copper-red).
Origin & Background
In 1973, the San Francisco Mint operated a foreign coinage contract, striking coins for Liberia alongside its regular U.S. proof production. Bronze and copper planchets destined for Liberian cents shared the facility with dime planchets. A small number of these foreign blanks were accidentally mixed into the proof dime feeder bins and struck with 1973-S dime dies. The result is a coin bearing the complete design of a 1973-S Roosevelt Proof Dime — mirror fields, frosted portrait — on a copper-red bronze planchet.
How to Identify
- The coin is visibly copper-red (like a penny) rather than the normal silver-clad color
- It retains full proof characteristics: deep mirror fields, frosted design devices, sharp rim detail
- Weight deviates significantly from the standard 2.268 grams — the Liberia cent planchet has a different weight and alloy
- The edge may lack proper reeding or show incorrect diameter depending on the specific Liberia planchet type
- Professional authentication by PCGS or NGC is mandatory before any sale — do not clean or alter
False Positives to Avoid
Environmental damage is by far the most common confusion. Soil chemicals, acid, and extended burial can turn any clad dime copper-red or brown across its entire surface. The definitive test is the scale: if the coin weighs 2.27 grams, it is damaged, not a wrong-planchet error. A genuine wrong-planchet coin will show a significantly different weight from the standard dime specification.
Market Values
- • Typical certified range: $1,500–$3,000 depending on grade and eye appeal
Auction Record
$2,880.00 for a specimen graded NGC PR64 Red Cameo. A second documented example realized $1,980.00.
1973 Roosevelt Dime Major Off-Center Strike
Normal 1973-D dime (left) vs. 65% off-center strike (right) — blank crescent occupies most of the planchet; date and D mint mark remain visible in the struck portion.
Origin & Background
An off-center strike occurs when the blank planchet is only partially positioned over the anvil die when the press strikes. The high-speed production quotas of 1973 increased the probability of feeder failures like this. The result is a coin with a crescent-shaped blank area where the die never made contact — and the design compressed into the remaining portion.
How to Identify
- A clearly blank crescent-shaped area on the planchet where no design appears
- The struck portion shows the Roosevelt design off to one side
- Value is driven primarily by two factors: the percentage of shift (higher = more dramatic = more valuable) and whether the date 1973 is still readable
- A 1973-D struck 65% off-center, with the date and D mint mark visible on the small struck portion, graded PCGS MS65 (Cert #43311854), sold for $1,516.50 at GreatCollections
- Minor off-center strikes under 20% with no date visible are worth only $20–$50
False Positives to Avoid
A misaligned die (MAD) shows the complete design shifted slightly from center — every element is still present, just relocated. A true off-center coin has an absolutely blank zone. Post-mint novelty cuts can mimic this error but have sharp, unnatural edges and typically show saw marks.
Market Values
- • Minor (under 20% off-center, no date): $20–$50
- • Major (50%+ off-center, date visible): $1,000+
Auction Record
$1,516.50 for the 1973-D 65% Off-Center Strike, PCGS MS65 (GreatCollections, Item #1078426).
1973 Roosevelt Dime Missing Clad Layer
Normal clad 1973 dime — both sides silver. Missing clad layer error — one side copper-red (exposed copper core), opposite side normal silver.
Origin & Background
The 1973 dime is a sandwich coin: two outer layers of copper-nickel (75% Cu / 25% Ni) bonded under pressure to a pure copper core. During manufacturing of the metal strip, if the bonding failed in a localized section, a planchet punched from that area would be missing one outer layer. That planchet, once struck, shows the exposed copper core on one side — distinctly red — while the other side remains normal.
How to Identify
- One side is distinctly copper-red; the other is normal silver-clad
- Weight of approximately 1.7–1.9 grams — well under the standard 2.268g because an entire layer of metal is absent
- The edge shows asymmetric layering — one layer is missing at the rim
- The strike on the copper side is weaker than normal because the thinner-than-spec planchet sat at a different height in the die cavity
False Positives to Avoid
Environmental damage or post-mint acid treatment can discolor one or both sides of a dime copper-red or brown. Weigh the coin immediately. If it weighs 2.27 grams, the discoloration is surface damage — not a mint error. Plated novelty coins are another source of confusion; these typically show an artificial coating that chips at edges.
Market Values
- • High eye-appeal examples: $100–$300
Auction Record
$41.00 for a 1973 MS62 ANACS Missing Clad Layer (2005). Current market values are substantially higher for visually dramatic, high-grade examples.
1973 Roosevelt Dime Full Bands (FB) / Full Torch (FT) Condition Rarity
Torch bands on a normal 1973 dime (left) — merged, bridged — vs. Full Bands example (right) — two distinct parallel lines with a clear valley separating them.
Origin & Background
The torch on the reverse has horizontal bands crossing vertical rods. A perfectly struck coin shows those bands as two fully distinct parallel lines with a clear valley between them. The copper-nickel clad planchets of 1973 were harder than the silver planchets used before 1965, requiring higher striking pressures — yet even so, the metal frequently failed to flow completely into the deepest portions of the die where the band separations are formed. The result: Full Bands coins are genuinely scarce for the 1973 date across both Philadelphia and Denver issues.
How to Identify
- Use a 10x loupe on the reverse torch, focusing on the center
- Both upper and lower band sets must show two fully separated, distinct parallel lines — a clear valley visible at every point across the full width
- No bridging (metal merging the two lines), no merging at any location
- PCGS designates this FT (Full Torch); NGC uses FB (Full Bands)
- The coin must also be uncirculated — no wear — for the designation to apply and add meaningful premium
- Note: 1973-S Proof dimes are not designated FB/FT
False Positives to Avoid
Bands that appear separated under the naked eye or at 5x but merge under a proper 10x loupe are not Full Bands. The separation must be complete and continuous across the entire width. The vast majority of 1973 dimes examined will fail this test. If you are uncertain, submit to PCGS or NGC — the FB/FT designation is their call, not yours.
Market Values
- • 1973 Philadelphia MS67 FB/FT: $250+
- • 1973-D Denver MS67 FB/FT: $300–$500+
- • Compare: a standard MS67 1973-D without FB is worth approximately $120
Auction Record
No single specific auction record is documented in available sources, but the FB/FT premium on MS67 coins is consistently observed at major auction houses. The designation materially separates collector-grade specimens from investment-grade ones.
1973-S RPM-001: S/S North (Repunched Mint Mark)
Standard 1973-S mint mark (left) vs. RPM-001 (right) — a secondary S impression protrudes clearly above (north of) the primary S.
Origin & Background
In 1973, each mint mark was still hand-punched into individual working dies at the mint. The punch had to be held absolutely steady and struck with sufficient force to create a clean impression. If the punch slipped or required a second blow in a slightly different position, the result was a Repunched Mint Mark (RPM) — two (or more) impressions of the letter visible on every coin struck from that die. The 1973-S RPM-001 shows a secondary S protruding northward from the top of the primary S and is recognized by CONECA and Wexler variety specialists.
How to Identify
- Use a 10x loupe on the S mint mark above the date on the obverse
- A secondary S impression is visible extending upward (north) from the top of the primary S
- The secondary impression shows the full S letter shape — not just a fuzzy outline or shadow
- May be accompanied by specific die polish lines on confirmed RPM-001 specimens
- Compare to documented photographs at Variety Vista — 1973-S RPMs
False Positives to Avoid
Die deterioration doubling or strike doubling on the mint mark creates a fuzzy, indistinct halo rather than a clean second letter impression. Machine Doubling is flat and shelf-like. A genuine RPM shows a distinct, rounded second impression of the complete letter. When in doubt, compare side-by-side with confirmed RPM-001 photographs before drawing conclusions.
Market Values
- • Verified RPM-001 on a 1973-S Proof: $20–$50 premium over the standard grade value for that specimen
Auction Record
No specific auction record for this variety alone is documented in available sources. The premium is observed in dealer pricing among Roosevelt Dime variety specialists.
1973 Roosevelt Dime Broadstrike (Struck Without Collar)
Normal 1973 dime with reeded edge (left) vs. broadstrike (right) — expanded diameter, smooth edge, flat rim; full centered design present.
Origin & Background
The collar is the retaining ring that encircles the planchet during striking. It simultaneously forms the reeded edge and prevents the softened metal from spreading outward. When the collar fails to deploy or breaks, the metal expands freely as the dies come together — creating a coin wider than normal with a smooth edge and a flat or absent rim. Unlike an off-center strike, the full design is present and centered; the coin is simply larger than it should be.
How to Identify
- Diameter exceeds 17.91 mm — measure with calipers
- Edge is smooth with no reeding
- Rim is flat or absent rather than the normal raised border
- The complete Roosevelt design is centered and visible
False Positives to Avoid
A heavily circulated coin with a worn rim still has reeding visible at the base of the rim — a broadstrike does not. Dryer coins (commercially tumbled to look shiny) have standard diameter and traces of reeding. An off-center strike always has a blank area; a broadstrike never does — the full design is spread out but complete.
Market Values
- • Circulated examples: $10–$20
- • High-grade (MS) specimens: $50+
Auction Record
No specific auction record for a 1973 dime broadstrike is documented in available sources.
1973 Roosevelt Dime Clipped Planchet
Clipped planchet: curved bite in the edge (lower right), and Blakesley Effect — weak, flat rim directly opposite the clip (upper left).
Origin & Background
A clipped planchet occurs when the metal strip fails to advance far enough through the blanking press. The circular punch overlaps a hole already created by a previous punch, producing a planchet with a curved bite of missing metal on one edge. Less commonly, the punch strikes near the very end of the strip, creating a straight clip. The clipped planchet then goes through all subsequent stages — upsetting, feeding, striking — and emerges as a finished coin with a section missing.
How to Identify
- A curved or straight section of missing metal on the edge of the coin
- The Blakesley Effect — the critical authentication marker: the rim directly opposite the clip is weak, flat, or entirely absent. This happens because the upsetting mill (which raises the proto-rim before striking) could not apply equal pressure around the full circumference of the incomplete planchet
- The design near the clip is typically weak or partially missing
False Positives to Avoid
Post-mint damage from pliers, vise grips, or a drill press can look identical to a clip from across a table. The authentication test: if the rim on the side directly opposite the clip is strong and fully formed — no Blakesley Effect — the damage was almost certainly made after the coin left the Mint. Genuine clips have smooth, curved missing areas; PMD tends to produce sharp, angled cuts.
Market Values
- • Typical range: $15–$30
Auction Record
No specific auction record for a 1973 dime clipped planchet is documented in available sources.
1973 Roosevelt Dime Common Traps: Mistakes That Cost Collectors Money
These three traps generate more misinformation — and more disappointment — than any legitimate error in the 1973 series. Know them before you get excited about a coin.
⚠️ Machine Doubling: The Most Common False Alarm on Any 1973 Dime
A secondary image alongside the date, LIBERTY, IN GOD WE TRUST, or mint mark — every element appears to have a ghost twin.
The die vibrates or shifts fractionally on impact. This is a mechanical issue during striking, not a hub die problem. It appears on coins from that press run but carries no collectible value.
- Machine Doubling is flat and shelf-like — it looks like steps cut into the metal alongside the letter or digit
- Letters appear thinner because the die sheared metal away rather than pressing it outward
- A genuine Doubled Die (worth money) shows rounded secondary images with split serifs — the letters appear noticeably thicker and the secondary impression is fully three-dimensional
- There are no major Cherrypicker-listed Doubled Dies for the 1973 Roosevelt Dime — virtually every instance of doubling on this date is worthless MD
Value: Face value only.
True Doubled Die (left): rounded, split serifs, thicker letters. Machine Doubling (right): flat shelf-like steps, thinner letters — worth face value only.
⚠️ The "No S" Myth: This Error Does Not Exist for 1973
A 1973 dime with no letter above the date. You've heard that "No S" proof dimes can fetch thousands of dollars.
Philadelphia did not use a P mint mark on dimes until 1980. Every 1973 Philadelphia dime — all 315,670,000 of them — has no mint mark by design. There is nothing wrong and nothing rare about the absence of a letter.
- Genuine "No S" Proof errors exist for 1968, 1970, 1975, and 1983 — not 1973
- There is no authenticated 1973 No-S Proof dime in any major reference or auction record
- A genuine No-S proof error would have deep mirror fields, razor-sharp square rims, and frosted devices — visible without magnification. If your coin lacks these, it is Philadelphia
- A 1973 dime with no mint mark and standard (non-mirror) surfaces is worth exactly $0.10
Value: Face value only.
⚠️ The "Copper Dime" Myth: Toning vs. Missing Clad Layer
A 1973 dime that is copper or brown in color. You wonder if it's the valuable missing clad layer error.
The 1973 clad dime is 91.67% copper by total content. Soil chemicals, environmental acids, and prolonged burial regularly turn the surface copper-red or brown. Metal detectorists encounter these constantly. The outer nickel layer is thin and reactive.
- Weigh it immediately. Standard dime: 2.268 grams. Genuine missing clad layer: 1.7–1.9 grams
- If it weighs 2.27g → environmental damage → face value
- Genuine missing clad layer errors show copper on one side only, with the opposite side remaining normal silver. Environmental damage affects both sides unevenly
- The copper side of a genuine error also shows a weaker-than-normal strike due to the thinner planchet sitting incorrectly in the die cavity
Value: Face value only (if discoloration only). Potential $100–$300 if weight is under 2.0g and one-sided copper — then authenticate.
Scale test: 2.27g = environmental damage (face value). Under 2.0g = investigate further for possible missing clad layer error.
1973 Roosevelt Dime Grading: How Condition Drives Value
Coin grades follow the Sheldon Scale from 1 (barely identifiable) to 70 (perfect). For 1973 dimes, value is essentially flat from worn to average uncirculated, then rises sharply at MS67 and above. The Full Bands designation creates another step-change in value at that top tier.
- Circulated (G4–AU58): Wear is visible on Roosevelt's hair above the ear and on the torch bands on the reverse. Worth face value (10¢) unless it is a proof ($1–$2) or has a verified error.
- MS60–63 (Uncirculated): No wear, but the coin has bag marks — scratches and dings from tumbling against other coins in Mint bags. Worth $0.25–$0.50. Rarely worth grading service fees.
- MS65 (Gem Uncirculated): Strong luster (the cartwheel shimmer of reflected light), minimal contact marks, none deep or distracting. The standard collector grade: $10–$15.
- MS67 (Superb Gem): Intense luster, virtually mark-free fields and devices, sharp strike. Roosevelt's cheek and neck show no scratches. Worth $60–$120+ depending on mint.
- Full Bands (FB/FT) on MS67: The horizontal torch bands are fully separated under 10x magnification. Jumps MS67 value to $250–$500+. The single most impactful designation for this date.
- Proof grades (PR/PF): PR69 Deep Cameo ≈ $10 due to abundant supply. PR70 Deep Cameo = $1,000+. A PCGS PR70DCAM sold for $7,050 in 2014.
⚠️ Grading Service Economics
PCGS, NGC, and ANACS charge approximately $30–$40 per coin to grade and encapsulate. Do not submit a standard 1973 dime worth $10–$15 — the fee exceeds the value. Reserve grading submissions for MS67+ candidates, Full Bands suspects, and all verified error coins. Professional grading is non-negotiable for error coins worth over $100.
1973 Roosevelt Dime Authentication: When and Why to Get Certified
Third-party grading (TPG) services — PCGS, NGC, ANACS — authenticate, grade, and seal coins in tamper-evident holders (called slabs). For 1973 dimes, certification shifts from optional to essential depending on what you have.
💡 Submit for Certification When You Have:
- Wrong planchet errors: No serious dealer or auction house will offer full market value for an unslabbed wrong-planchet coin. Authentication is mandatory.
- Major off-center strikes (50%+): Certification by PCGS or NGC eliminates buyer disputes and maximizes auction bids. The $1,516.50 record was a PCGS-slabbed coin.
- Missing clad layer: TPG attribution formally distinguishes a genuine error from environmental damage — the single most important distinction for this type.
- MS67+ business strike coins: Raw high-grade coins are difficult to sell at guide prices without a TPG slab confirming the grade.
- MS67 Full Bands candidates: If your coin appears to pass the FB/FT test under your loupe, submit to PCGS (for FT designation) or NGC (for FB). The premium is substantial and the designation requires expert confirmation.
- Proof coins above PR69: The PR70 premium is real and large — but requires certified authentication to command it.
⚠️ When NOT to Submit
Standard circulated coins, MS60–MS65 business strikes without Full Bands, and standard PR69 proofs — do not submit. With fees of $30–$40 per coin, a coin worth $10–$15 costs more to certify than it is worth. The economic threshold for submission is roughly $100+ realistic market value after grading.
ℹ️ Unusual S-Mint Non-Proof Coins
If you have a 1973-S dime that does not appear to be a proof (no mirror fields, no frosted devices), professional authentication is strongly recommended before any transaction. The San Francisco Mint produced exclusively proof dimes in 1973 — a non-proof S-mint coin could be a genuine rare business strike, a proof with heavy wear, or a coin with an artificially added mint mark. TPG will sort this out definitively.
For reputable error coin dealers and upcoming auction opportunities, consult the American Numismatic Association (ANA) dealer directory or major auction houses — Heritage Auctions and Stack's Bowers Galleries regularly handle 1973 Roosevelt Dime error coins.
1973 Roosevelt Dime Errors: Frequently Asked Questions
How much is a 1973 dime with no mint mark worth?
A 1973 dime with no mint mark is a standard Philadelphia business strike. With over 315 million produced and no silver content, circulated examples are worth exactly $0.10. Uncirculated gems (MS65) reach about $10. The absence of a mint mark is completely normal for Philadelphia dimes of this era — the P mark was not added until 1980. There is no authenticated 1973 No-S Proof dime.
What makes a 1973-S proof dime valuable?
Standard 1973-S Proof dimes — even near-perfect PR69 Deep Cameo examples — are worth only $8–$12 because 2.76 million proof sets were sold. Value spikes dramatically at PR70 Deep Cameo (a flawless coin): one sold for $7,050 in 2014 via PCGS. The other high-value S-mint item is the wrong-planchet error — a proof struck on a Liberia cent planchet — which has sold for $2,880.
My 1973 dime appears doubled. Is it worth anything?
Almost certainly not. There are no major Cherrypicker-listed Doubled Die varieties for the 1973 Roosevelt Dime. Virtually all doubling seen on 1973 dimes is Machine Doubling (MD) — flat, shelf-like, and of zero numismatic value. A genuine Doubled Die (which is not documented for 1973) would show rounded, split serifs with thickened letters. If in doubt, consult the NGC guide on Doubled Dies vs. Machine Doubling.
My 1973 dime looks copper or brown. Is it a missing clad layer error?
Weigh it before anything else. A genuine missing clad layer error weighs 1.7–1.9 grams (the standard is 2.268g). If your coin weighs 2.27g and looks copper, it is environmental damage from soil, acid, or chemicals — worth face value. A genuine error shows copper on ONE side only, with the other side remaining normal silver, and the copper side typically has a weaker-than-normal strike.
What is Full Bands (FB) or Full Torch (FT) and why does it matter so much?
The torch on the reverse has horizontal bands crossing vertical rods. Full Bands (NGC designation) or Full Torch (PCGS designation) means those bands are fully separated — two distinct parallel lines with a clear valley between them at every point under 10x magnification. Most 1973 dimes fail this test because the hard clad planchets resisted complete metal flow. The grade impact: a 1973-D MS67 without Full Bands is worth about $120; the same coin with Full Bands can command $300–$500+.
What tools do I need to check a 1973 dime for errors?
Two tools cover almost every check: (1) a 10x magnifying loupe for Full Bands, RPM, and doubling checks, and (2) a digital scale accurate to 0.01 grams for missing clad layer and wrong planchet verification. Standard dimes weigh 2.268 grams — any coin significantly lighter or heavier deserves further investigation. Both tools cost under $20 combined and are essential for error coin hunting.
What is the most valuable 1973 dime ever sold?
By auction record, a PCGS PR70 Deep Cameo 1973-S Proof sold for $7,050 in 2014 — that is a condition rarity, not a manufacturing error. Among error coins, the 1973-S Proof struck on a Liberia cent planchet (NGC PR64 Red Cameo) sold for $2,880, and the 1973-D 65% off-center strike (PCGS MS65) sold for $1,516.50 at GreatCollections.
Should I clean my 1973 dime before submitting for grading?
Never. Cleaning removes original surface luster and microscopic metal, permanently damaging the coin. Even light polishing destroys the natural skin developed during striking. PCGS and NGC assign a "details" grade (e.g., MS65 Details — Cleaned) to cleaned coins, which dramatically reduces market value. Always handle potential error coins by the edges only, and present them to graders exactly as found.
1973 Roosevelt Dime Research: Sources & Methodology
Values and diagnostics in this guide are derived exclusively from the following primary numismatic sources:
- PCGS CoinFacts — 1973-S Dime PR70DCAM auction records and population data
- GreatCollections — 1973-D 65% Off-Center Strike auction record (Item #1078426)
- NGC Coin Explorer — 1973-D Roosevelt Dime MS population data
- Variety Vista — 1973-S RPM variety documentation
- Variety Vista — 1973-S RPM-001 specific diagnostics
- NGC — Doubled Dies vs. Machine Doubling educational reference
- Roosevelt Dimes — Technical specifications and minting standards
- GreatCollections Knowledge Base — No-S Proof errors: history and value
Values are typical retail estimates as of January 2025 for PCGS- or NGC-certified examples unless otherwise noted. Coin markets fluctuate — consult current auction records before buying or selling any specimen.
A note on images: To help illustrate coin diagnostics and rare varieties — especially complex errors that are difficult to describe in text alone — this guide uses AI-generated images. All written values, diagnostics, and variety attributions have been manually reviewed against the cited sources above. While our editorial team works to ensure every image is accurate and helpful, AI-generated illustrations may occasionally misrepresent fine details. If you spot any discrepancy between an image and its written description, please contact us or leave a comment below — we review all feedback and correct errors promptly. Numismatic knowledge is a community effort, and your input helps us build a more accurate resource for everyone.
