2010 Roosevelt Dime Errors: Value Guide & Rare Varieties
Find out if your 2010 Roosevelt Dime is worth more than face value. Missing Clad Layer errors reach $150–$400. Satin Finish final-year coins top $225. Spot curved clips, off-center strikes, and the Mechanical Doubling trap. Updated January 2026.
Most 2010 dimes are worth face value, but a Missing Clad Layer error fetches $150–$400 and the 2010 Satin Finish—the final year of this matte collector finish—reaches $225 in top grade.
- ✓ Missing Clad Layer: Copper-red side + weighs 1.8–2.0g = $150–$400
- ✓ Satin Finish (Mint Set): Matte velvety surface, P or D mint = $3–$8 (up to $225 in SP69FB)
- ✓ Curved Clip: Crescent rim void + Blakesley Effect opposite = $5–$60
- ✓ Off-Center Strike (>10% with date): Shifted design + blank metal crescent = $15–$100+
⚠️ Biggest trap: Flat, shelf-like “doubling” on the date or motto is Mechanical Doubling—worth exactly $0.10 and extremely common on 2010 dimes.
2010 Roosevelt Dime Errors Error Checker
Check your coin for valuable errors and varieties
Values shown are typical retail estimates as of 2026-01.
The 2010 Roosevelt Dime has no major Doubled Die varieties listed in verified catalogs as of early 2026.
Error coin values vary significantly based on grade, eye appeal, and current market conditions.
Professional authentication (PCGS/NGC) is recommended for coins with potential Missing Clad Layer errors or dramatic off-center strikes exceeding 10%.
Mechanical Doubling (flat, shelf-like doubling) is NOT a valuable error variety and carries zero numismatic premium.
Satin Finish coins (2005–2010 Mint Sets) are an intentional issue type, not an error. Circulated examples are worth face value.
Silver Proof values include a melt value floor based on 90% silver content (approximately $7+ as of 2026-01).
Pull a 2010 dime from pocket change and it is—almost certainly—worth ten cents. Over 1.1 billion were struck across Philadelphia and Denver, making this one of the most common modern dimes in existence. But “almost certainly” leaves room for real money: a genuine Missing Clad Layer error sold for approximately $258 certified, and 2010’s Satin Finish—the very last year the U.S. Mint used this matte collector finish—reaches $225 in top grade. Here is how to tell the difference in minutes. See the full 2010 Roosevelt Dime value guide →
2010 Roosevelt Dime: Specifications & Baseline Values
The 2010 Roosevelt Dime was produced at three mints in four distinct formats. Knowing which type you have is the essential first step—each format carries a very different value and different error potential.
| Mint | Issue Type | Mintage | Composition | Weight | Circulated | Unc / Proof |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Philadelphia (P) | Business Strike | 557,000,000 | Cu-Ni Clad | 2.27g | $0.10 | $0.50–$1.00 (MS65) |
| Denver (D) | Business Strike | 562,000,000 | Cu-Ni Clad | 2.27g | $0.10 | $0.50–$1.00 (MS65) |
| Philadelphia (P) | Satin Finish (Mint Set) | 583,897 | Cu-Ni Clad | 2.27g | Face value | $3–$8 (SP65–67) | $225 (SP69FB) |
| Denver (D) | Satin Finish (Mint Set) | 583,897 | Cu-Ni Clad | 2.27g | Face value | $3–$8 (SP65–67) | $225 (SP69FB) |
| San Francisco (S) | Proof (Clad) | 1,103,815 | Cu-Ni Clad | 2.27g | $2–$4 (impaired) | $4–$10 (PR69) |
| San Francisco (S) | Proof (Silver) | 585,401 | 90% Silver / 10% Cu | 2.50g | $7–$12 (impaired) | $15–$25 (PR69) |
Left: Clad dime edge showing copper stripe. Right: Silver Proof edge—solid white, no stripe.
ℹ️ 2010: The Final Satin Finish Year
The U.S. Mint produced Satin Finish coins for annual Uncirculated Mint Sets from 2005 through 2010. Starting in 2011, Mint Sets returned to a standard Brilliant finish. This makes the 2010-P and 2010-D Satin dimes the last of their kind—a “tail-end” type appealing to type collectors. Only 583,897 sets were produced, versus over half a billion business strikes at each mint.
For full values of standard circulated and uncirculated examples, see the complete 2010 Roosevelt Dime value guide.
2010 Roosevelt Dime Quick Checks: Do You Have Something Valuable?
Run these four checks in order. The first three point to genuine value; the fourth is the most common and costly trap. Tools needed: a 10x loupe (a small magnifying glass for coins) and a digital scale accurate to 0.01 grams.
Digital scale showing the three key weights: 2.27g (normal), 2.50g (Silver Proof), 1.8–2.0g (Missing Clad Layer).
Check 1: Missing Clad Layer
Both faces of the coin. Look for one entire side—or a large patch—that is a bold, uniform copper-red instead of the normal silver color.
One entire side is copper-red with sharp, crisp design details and smooth metal flow. The coin must weigh 1.8–2.0g (standard is 2.27g). Weight is the definitive test—a digital scale is non-negotiable here.
Brown or reddish toning from corrosion (coin still weighs 2.27g), acid-stripped coins (pitted rough surfaces with blurry details), or plating blisters (raised gas bubbles that do not change weight).
Check 2: Satin Finish Identification (Final Year 2010)
The flat background areas (called “fields”) on both sides of the coin. Slowly tilt the coin under a single light source and watch how the reflection behaves. P or D mintmark only—S-mint 2010 dimes are always proofs, never Satin.
A soft, non-reflective matte surface with a diffused sheet glow—not the spinning “cartwheel” band of a business strike. Strike detail is often sharper than a business coin. This is an intentional Mint Set issue, not an error.
Environmental damage, a cleaned coin, or a circulated business strike. A spent Satin Finish coin looks dull and grey—not an error, just a collector coin that entered circulation and lost its velvet texture.
Check 3: Curved Clip (Incomplete Planchet)
The rim (edge) of the coin. Look for a crescent-shaped void—like a bite taken from the edge—with a smooth, curved profile.
The clip must have the Blakesley Effect: a weak, tapered, or flat rim directly opposite (180°) the clip. This confirms the defect happened before striking at the Mint. Larger clips (>15%) command the highest prices.
Post-mint damage from pliers or wire cutters. Post-mint damage leaves a strong, full rim on the opposite side. Genuine mint clips always have Blakesley weakness. If the opposite rim is intact and normal, it is not a genuine error.
Trap: Mechanical Doubling (Zero Premium)
The date “2010,” the mintmark, and the motto “IN GOD WE TRUST.” Extremely common on 2010 dimes due to the single-squeeze hubbing process used at high production volume.
Flat, step-like shelves on the sides of numbers and letters. The original letter looks thinner than normal, with a raised flat ledge beside it.
This is Mechanical Doubling (MD)—a strike artifact caused by a loose die shifting or tilting during impact. A true Doubled Die would show rounded doubling with extra volume; MD shows flat shelves that subtract from letter width. No major Doubled Die Obverse (DDO) or Doubled Die Reverse (DDR) is verified for any 2010 dime in the Wexler, CONECA, or VarietyVista catalogs.
2010 Roosevelt Dime Errors Worth Money: Complete Value Table
All verified errors and issue types consolidated. Sorted by value. Non-errors (face value) are listed at the bottom so you can quickly confirm what is and is not collectible for this year.
| Error Type | Category | Mint | Rarity | Value Range | Auction Record |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Missing Clad Layer | Planchet Error | P / D | Rare | $50–$400+ | ~$258 (MS68FB) |
| Satin Finish (SP69FB) | Special Strike | P / D | Common in Sets | $3–$225 | $225 (SP69FB) |
| Off-Center Strike (>20%) | Striking Error | P / D | Scarce | $30–$100+ | — |
| Curved Clip (>15%) | Planchet Error | P / D | Scarce | $5–$60 | ~$60 (est.) |
| Broadstrike | Striking Error | P / D | Scarce | $10–$25 | — |
| Grease-Filled Die | Striking Error | P / D | Common | $1–$5 | — |
| Die Chip / Die Crack | Die Defect | P / D | Common | $1–$3 | — |
| Mechanical Doubling (MD) | Non-Error (Strike Artifact) | All | Very Common | Face Value | — |
| Die Deterioration Doubling | Non-Error | All | Very Common | Face Value | — |
| Plating Blister | Non-Error | All | Common | Face Value | — |
Values as of January 2026. Error coin prices are strongly condition-dependent; a dramatic error in MS65+ can be worth multiples of a raw circulated example.
2010 Roosevelt Dime Valuable Errors: Detailed Identification Guides
Each major error for 2010 dimes is covered in depth below. Work through the identification steps before spending money on professional grading.
2010 Missing Clad Layer Error
Normal 2010 dime (left) vs. Missing Clad Layer error (right) showing an entire copper-red obverse.
Origin & Background
A dime’s planchet (blank disc) is a “sandwich”: outer layers of 75% copper / 25% nickel bonded to a pure copper core. If the bonding fails at the strip supplier before the blank is even punched, one side of the strip lacks its nickel layer entirely. A coin struck from such a defective blank has one copper-red side and one normal silver side. The error originates at the planchet supplier, not at the coin press. The 2010 production ramp-up (500+ million coins per mint) increased the statistical probability of such planchet supply defects reaching the press floor.
How to Identify
- One entire side is a uniform copper-red with sharp, well-defined strike details and smooth metal flow lines.
- Coin weighs 1.8–2.0g—significantly below the 2.27g standard. It is physically missing approximately one-sixth of its mass.
- Magnet test: the coin does not stick (all genuine 2010 dimes are non-magnetic). Any coin that sticks to a magnet is fake.
- The copper surface should feel smooth, not pitted or rough.
False Positives to Avoid
The most common fake is an environmentally damaged coin darkened to a brownish-copper color. The test is simple: a damaged coin still weighs 2.27g because all the metal is present. Acid-dipped coins may weigh less but show pitted, rough surfaces with “mushy” (blurred) design details. A genuine missing clad layer coin retains crisp, sharp strike detail on the copper face. Plating blisters look alarming but do not change the coin’s weight.
Missing Clad Layer Values by Severity
- Partial Missing Clad (patchy copper spots): $20–$50 raw | $50–$100 certified
- Full Obverse or Reverse Missing Clad: $100–$200 raw | $250–$400 certified
- Dual Missing Clad (both sides copper—extremely rare): Value varies highly
Auction Record
~$258 for MS68FB (PCGS Auction Prices, 2015). Circulated examples fetch $50–$100 as exposed copper turns brown quickly in commerce.
2010 Curved Clip (Incomplete Planchet)
2010 dime with a major curved clip. The weak rim opposite the clip (Blakesley Effect) confirms this is a genuine mint error.
Origin & Background
Curved clips occur when the blanking press punches a coin disc from a strip of metal that overlaps a hole already punched for a previous blank. The result is a planchet with a crescent-shaped void. This incomplete blank is then fed through the rim-forming and striking process, preserving the defect in the finished coin.
How to Identify
- A crescent-shaped void in the rim with a smooth, curved contour consistent with a blanking die punch overlap.
- The Blakesley Effect: the rim is weak, tapered, or flat directly opposite (180°) the clip. When the rim-forming machine tried to upset (push up) the edge of the clipped planchet, it lacked metal on the clip side and therefore failed to apply proper pressure on the opposite side. This is the single most important diagnostic.
- Larger clips (more than 15% of diameter missing) produce more dramatic Blakesley weakness and command higher prices.
False Positives to Avoid
Post-mint damage from pliers, wire cutters, or vises creates “bites” that look like clips. The tell: post-mint damage leaves the rim strong and full on the opposite side. Genuine clips always have Blakesley weakness opposite. If the “opposite” rim is normal and fully formed, it is damage, not a mint error.
Curved Clip Values by Size
- Minor clip (less than 5%): $5–$10
- Moderate clip (5–15%): $15–$30
- Major clip (more than 15%, intruding into design elements): $30–$60
2010 Off-Center Strike (Over 10%)
2010 dime struck approximately 30% off-center. Date remains fully visible, maximizing collector value.
Origin & Background
An off-center strike occurs when the blank disc is not properly centered in the collar (the steel ring that holds it during striking) when the dies come together. Modern coin presses use sensors to eject misaligned planchets, which is why dramatic off-center strikes are scarcer on modern coins than on older issues—each example that survives represents a sensor failure.
How to Identify
- The design is visibly shifted in one direction, leaving a crescent of blank, unstruck metal visible.
- Estimate the offset percentage by comparing the blank crescent area to the overall coin diameter.
- The date “2010” must be visible for full value. A dateless off-center dime cannot be confirmed as 2010 and loses 50–70% of its value.
False Positives to Avoid
A “Misaligned Die” (MAD) strike shifts the design only 1–3% and is common and nearly worthless. True off-center errors show blank planchet metal with no rim on the offset side. MAD strikes retain a full rim all the way around. The blank-metal crescent is the key diagnostic for genuine off-center errors.
Off-Center Strike Values
- 1–5% offset: Face value
- 5–10% offset (rim missing): $5–$10
- 10–20% offset (date visible): $15–$30
- 20–50% offset (date visible): $30–$75 raw | $100+ certified high-grade
- Over 50% offset (date must be visible): $50–$100+ raw | $150+ certified
2010 Satin Finish Special Strike (Final Year SP)
Left: Business strike with cartwheel luster. Right: 2010 Satin Finish with soft, diffused matte surface.
Origin & Background
From 2005 through 2010, the U.S. Mint struck special “Satin Finish” dimes (designated SP or SMS by grading services) for its annual Uncirculated Coin Sets. Planchets were burnished by tumbling with media, and the dies were sandblasted, creating a microscopically rougher surface than a standard business strike. 2010 was the final year before the Mint reverted to a standard Brilliant finish in 2011. This end-of-series status makes the 2010-P and 2010-D Satin dimes “tail-end” type coins sought by type collectors and set builders alike.
How to Identify
- The surface has a soft, non-reflective matte appearance—no brilliant mirror-like fields anywhere on the coin.
- Tilt under a single light source: you see a diffused sheet glow, not the spinning cartwheel band of a business strike.
- Must carry a P or D mintmark. S-mint 2010 dimes are always proof coins, never Satin Finish.
- Strike detail is often sharper than a business strike due to the slower, higher-pressure production process.
- Designated “SP” (Special Strike) by PCGS and NGC when certified.
False Positives to Avoid
A circulated Satin Finish coin loses its velvet texture through the friction of commerce and looks dull and grey. This is often mistaken for a “sandblasted error” or a coin with “missing luster.” These circulated examples are worth face value. Environmental damage and cleaned business strikes can also appear matte: if the coin has wear on the high points (Roosevelt’s hair, cheek) it is simply a circulated coin with no collectible Satin designation.
Satin Finish Values
- Circulated (spent from a Mint Set): Face value
- SP65–SP67 (typical uncirculated): $3–$8
- SP68 with Full Bands (FB): $10–$20
- SP69FB (gem, Full Bands designation): Up to $225
Auction Record
$225 for SP69FB (certified, per PCGS CoinFacts — 2010-P Satin Finish FB).
2010 Broadstrike Error
Normal 2010 dime (left, 17.91mm) vs. broadstrike (right) showing wider diameter and flattened rim.
Origin & Background
A broadstrike occurs when the collar die—the steel ring that constrains the planchet to exactly 17.91mm during striking—is absent or malfunctioning. Without the collar to hold the metal, the coin spreads outward beyond its standard diameter when the dies impact. Broadstrikes on modern dimes are relatively scarce because improved press technology detects collar failures quickly.
How to Identify
- The coin’s diameter exceeds 17.91mm (use calipers or a coin ring gauge).
- The rim is weak, flattened, or absent around the entire circumference.
- The full design is present, just spread outward uniformly beyond its normal boundary.
False Positives to Avoid
“Dryer coins” (tumbled in clothes dryers) may have damaged, rounded rims but show scratches and dings from tumbling. Genuine broadstrikes have smooth, uniformly spread metal with no post-strike damage marks. The damage on a dryer coin is irregular and localized; a broadstrike’s spread is even all the way around.
Market Values
- Raw broadstrike: $10–$25
- Certified high-grade example: Value varies by grade and eye appeal
2010 Roosevelt Dime Common Traps: False Alarms That Are Worth $0.10
These are the most common reasons collectors waste $30–$50 submitting worthless 2010 dimes for professional grading. Learn to recognize them before you spend a cent.
⚠️ Mechanical Doubling (MD) — The #1 Trap
Flat, shelf-like steps on the sides of date digits or motto letters (especially “2010” and “IN GOD WE TRUST”). The letters appear thinner than normal with a raised flat ledge beside them.
The die tilts or shifts microscopically during the single-squeeze hubbing process, shearing the freshly struck metal. Very common on 2010 dimes due to the high production volume and speed. This is a non-collectible strike artifact—not a variety.
- The secondary image is flat and shelf-like, not rounded with extra volume.
- The letter looks narrower than normal—MD subtracts from width, it never adds.
- No major DDO or DDR is cataloged for any 2010 dime in Wexler, CONECA, or VarietyVista files.
Value: Face value only ($0.10).
Left: Genuine doubled die (rounded extra volume, notched serifs). Right: Mechanical Doubling (flat shelf, letters look thinner).
⚠️ Environmental Damage (“Cup Holder Coin”)
A dark brown, reddish, or patchy coin surface. May look copper-colored and be mistaken for a Missing Clad Layer error.
Exposure to coffee, soda, sweat, cleaning chemicals, or humidity strips and discolors the outer nickel layer, letting the copper core show through as a brownish tint. Common in coins left in cup holders, ashtrays, or damp pockets.
- Weigh it: the coin reads 2.27g—all the metal is still present. A genuine Missing Clad Layer weighs 1.8–2.0g.
- The surface is pitted, rough, or streaky. Genuine missing clad errors have smooth copper with sharp, crisp design details.
Value: Face value only ($0.10).
⚠️ Circulated Satin Finish (“Looks Sandblasted”)
A dull, hazy, non-reflective 2010 dime with visible wear. Looks unusual compared to a shiny business strike, leading some to believe it was struck on a special planchet.
A 2010 Satin Finish Mint Set coin was broken out of its packaging and spent as change. The friction of commerce destroys the distinctive matte velvet texture, leaving a dull, grey coin that looks “wrong.”
- The coin shows wear on Roosevelt’s hair and cheek. A collectible Satin Finish must be uncirculated—no wear at all.
- Circulated Satin dimes are worth face value regardless of their unusual appearance.
Value: Face value only ($0.10) if circulated.
⚠️ Grease-Filled “No Mintmark” 2010 Dime
A 2010 dime with a missing or barely visible “P” or “D” mintmark above the date on the obverse (front of the coin).
Grease and debris clogged the mintmark cavity in the die, preventing metal from filling it during the strike. This is a “Grease-Filled Die” error—not a rare variety like the 1970s “No S” proofs.
- A grease-filled mintmark on a circulation dime is worth $1–$2 at most. It is not a major rarity.
- All 2010 business strike dimes should carry a P or D mintmark. A missing mintmark is simply a grease fill, not an intentional no-mintmark variety.
Value: $1–$2 at most.
2010 Roosevelt Dime Grading: How Grade Affects Error Coin Values
Grade is the single biggest value driver for 2010 dime errors. A dramatic Missing Clad Layer in MS68 can be worth three to five times a circulated example of the same error. Key grade levels to understand:
- Circulated (G–EF): Visible wear on Roosevelt’s cheek, hair, and the torch flame. Business strikes are worth face value. Errors still carry premiums but at the low end of their ranges. Circulated Satin Finish coins trade at face value regardless of grade.
- Mint State (MS60–MS70): No wear whatsoever; original luster fully intact. MS65+ is the standard target grade for error submissions. Full Bands (FB)—where the horizontal bands on the reverse torch are fully struck and separated—adds meaningful premium to dimes across all issue types.
- Special Strike (SP65–SP70): Used by PCGS and NGC for Satin Finish dimes. SP69FB is the threshold where premiums become significant (up to $225). Submitting raw Satin dimes often yields SP67–SP68, where value may not exceed grading cost.
- Proof (PR69–PR70 DCAM): Deep Cameo (DCAM) designation—frosted raised designs against mirror-bright fields—adds the most significant premium on Silver Proof issues from San Francisco.
Even minor contact marks (bag marks, hairlines) can drop a coin from MS67 to MS65, a difference that may cut the value of a high-grade Satin Finish example by 50% or more.
2010 Roosevelt Dime Authentication: When to Get Your Coin Certified
Third-party grading (PCGS, NGC, or ANACS) costs $30–$50 per coin at standard service levels. Only submit when the coin’s realistic market value clearly exceeds that cost plus your time.
✓ Submit for Grading
- Missing Clad Layer with confirmed weight of 1.8–2.0g. Market value ($150+) comfortably exceeds grading cost.
- Off-Center Strike over 20% with the date “2010” clearly visible.
- Satin Finish in pristine, unhandled condition—only if still in original sealed Mint Set packaging. Raw Satin coins often grade SP67/68, where market value may not exceed grading cost.
- 2010-S Silver Proof found outside its original set, to confirm silver content and authenticity.
⚠️ Do NOT Submit
- Coins with flat, shelf-like “doubling” (Mechanical Doubling). Value is $0.10 regardless of any grading.
- Dark or brownish coins that still weigh 2.27g (environmental damage, not a mint error).
- Minor die chips or grease-filled dies (value $1–$5; grading cost eliminates profit entirely).
- Curved clips under 5% in size (value $5–$10; the slabbing fee exceeds the premium).
Essential Authentication Tools
- 10x–20x Loupe: Distinguishes the rounded doubling of a genuine doubled die from the flat shelves of Mechanical Doubling. Also confirms the Blakesley Effect on clips.
- Digital Scale (0.01g accuracy): The single most critical tool. Normal 2010 dimes: 2.27g. Silver Proof (S-mint only): 2.50g. Missing Clad Layer: 1.8–2.0g.
- Magnet: All genuine 2010 dimes (Clad and Silver) are non-magnetic. Any 2010 dime that sticks to a magnet is a fake or a foreign planchet.
For dealer referrals, consult the American Numismatic Association (ANA) dealer directory. Dealer listings are not maintained on this page.
2010 Roosevelt Dime Errors: Frequently Asked Questions
Is my 2010 dime worth anything?
Most circulated 2010 dimes are worth exactly $0.10. Over 1.1 billion were struck at Philadelphia and Denver, making them among the most common modern dimes. However, genuine mint errors—like a Missing Clad Layer ($150–$400) or an off-center strike ($15–$100+)—are real exceptions worth investigating if the coin passes the weight and visual checks above.
Does any 2010 dime have a doubled die error?
No major Doubled Die Obverse (DDO) or Doubled Die Reverse (DDR) is verified for 2010 Roosevelt Dimes in the leading variety catalogs—Wexler, CONECA, and VarietyVista—as of early 2026. The modern single-squeeze hubbing process virtually eliminated traditional doubled dies. Most “doubling” seen on 2010 dimes is worthless Mechanical Doubling (flat, shelf-like) or Die Deterioration Doubling (fuzzy, radial lines near the rim).
What is the 2010 Satin Finish dime and why is it special?
From 2005 through 2010, the U.S. Mint struck special Satin Finish dimes for its annual Uncirculated Coin Sets. These have a soft, non-reflective matte surface (not shiny like a business strike and not mirrored like a proof). 2010 was the final year of this finish before the Mint switched back to a Brilliant finish in 2011. In pristine uncirculated condition, 2010 Satin Finish dimes grade SP65–SP67 ($3–$8), with top-grade SP69FB examples reaching $225.
How do I tell the difference between a Missing Clad Layer and a dirty coin?
Weigh it. A genuine Missing Clad Layer coin weighs approximately 1.8–2.0 grams—significantly less than the standard 2.27g, because it is physically missing a layer of metal. An environmentally damaged or dirty coin still has all its metal and weighs the full 2.27g. Additionally, a genuine error has sharp, well-defined design details on the copper face; corroded or acid-damaged coins have pitted, rough, “mushy” surfaces.
Is a 2010 dime missing a mintmark rare and valuable?
No. All 2010 business strike dimes carry a P (Philadelphia) or D (Denver) mintmark above the date. If the mintmark is missing or very faint, it is almost certainly a “Grease-Filled Die” error—where grease clogged the mintmark cavity—worth $1–$2 at most. It is not a major rarity like the historic 1970s “No S” proof errors.
How do I identify a 2010-S Silver Proof dime?
Look for the S mintmark (San Francisco) and check the edge of the coin. A Silver Proof has a solid white/silver edge with no orange-brown copper core stripe visible (clad dimes always show that stripe). Silver Proofs also weigh 2.50g versus 2.27g for clad dimes. A 2010-S Silver Proof in PR69 condition is worth $15–$25.
What is the Blakesley Effect and why does it matter for clips?
The Blakesley Effect is a weakness in the rim directly opposite (180°) from a curved clip. When a clipped planchet passes through the rim-forming machine, there is no metal to push against at the clip site, causing the machine to fail to form a strong rim on the far side. A genuine mint clip always produces this opposite-side rim weakness. If a coin has a “clip” but the rim is strong all the way around, it is post-mint damage—worth face value only.
2010 Roosevelt Dime Research Methodology & Sources
All prices, diagnostics, mintage figures, and auction records in this guide are drawn exclusively from the following verified numismatic sources, accessed January 2026:
- Wexler’s Coins and Die Varieties — Confirming no major DDO or DDR listings for 2010 Roosevelt Dimes
- PCGS CoinFacts — 2010-P Satin Finish FB — Satin Finish auction records and population data (SP69FB record: $225)
- PCGS Auction Prices — 2010-P Roosevelt Dime MS — Missing Clad Layer record (~$258 MS68FB)
- PCGS CoinFacts — 2010-S Silver Proof — Silver Proof specifications and values
- NGC Coin Explorer — 2010-S Silver Dime — Mintage and population data
- NGC — Double Dies vs. Machine Doubling — Official diagnostics for MD vs. DDO identification
- GreatCollections — 2010-P Curved Clip ANACS MS65 — Clip error reference and Blakesley Effect documentation
- VarietyVista — Roosevelt Dime DDO Listings — Confirming no major 2010 DDO listings
- Wikipedia — Roosevelt Dime Mintage Figures — Production totals for all 2010 mint facilities
A note on images: To help illustrate coin diagnostics and rare varieties — especially complex errors that are difficult to describe in text alone — this guide uses AI-generated images. All written values, diagnostics, and variety attributions have been manually reviewed against the cited sources above. While our editorial team works to ensure every image is accurate and helpful, AI-generated illustrations may occasionally misrepresent fine details. If you spot any discrepancy between an image and its written description, please contact us or leave a comment below — we review all feedback and correct errors promptly. Numismatic knowledge is a community effort, and your input helps us build a more accurate resource for everyone.
