Dime Value Guide (1796–2026)

Dime values range from face value (10 cents) for common modern clad issues to over $3.6 million for the unique 1873-CC Seated Liberty (No Arrows). Silver dimes (1796-1964) are worth at minimum their silver melt value (approximately $1.50-$2.00 as of 2026). Key factors that determine value include: series (Draped Bust, Seated Liberty, Barber, Mercury, Roosevelt), year and mint mark, condition (grade), strike quality ("Full Bands" for Mercury and Roosevelt), and rarity. Common Roosevelt dimes from 1965-2026 are generally worth face value unless they are proof errors, SMS issues, or high-grade specimens. To determine your dime's value, identify the series, check for a mint mark (D, S, CC, O, W), assess condition, and consult a current price guide or dealer.

The Seated Liberty series (1837-1891) contains the most valuable individual coin: the unique 1873-CC No Arrows dime worth $3.6 million. However, the series with the highest concentration of valuable dates is the Barber series (1892-1916), which includes the legendary 1894-S proof (only 24 minted, ~9 known) valued at $1.5-$2.0 million. The Mercury series (1916-1945) is most popular among modern collectors due to its beautiful design and the "Full Bands" phenomenon, where condition rarities like the 1938-S MS68+ FB can reach $364,250. Early Draped Bust dimes (1796-1807) are highly valuable due to low mintages and poor survival rates, with key dates like the 1804 worth $60,000-$632,500 in high grades. The Roosevelt series (1946-2026) contains valuable proof errors, most notably the 1975 No S Proof (only 2 known) worth $450,000-$506,000.

The most important key dates across all dime series are: Draped Bust:1804 (both 13 and 14 star varieties), 1796 (first year). Capped Bust:1822 (only ~300 known), 1829 Curl Base 2. Seated Liberty:1873-CC No Arrows (unique), 1872-CC, 1871-CC, 1874-CC, 1846. Barber:1894-S (proof only, 9 known), 1895-O, 1901-S. Mercury:1916-D (the "King"), 1921, 1921-D, 1942/1 and 1942/1-D (overdate errors). Roosevelt:1975 No S Proof (2 known), 1968 No S Proof, 1982 No P (circulation find), 1996-W (Mint Set only). For Mercury and Roosevelt dimes, the "Full Bands" (FB) or "Full Torch" (FT) designation can increase value by 10-100x even on common dates.

Draped Bust (1796-1807): Liberty with flowing hair facing right, draped fabric across chest. Reverse shows either a small eagle in wreath (1796-1797) or large heraldic eagle with shield (1798-1807). Capped Bust (1809-1837): Liberty facing left wearing a cloth cap with "LIBERTY" inscribed on headband. Look for "Large Dentils" (1809-1828) or "Small Dentils" (1828-1837) around rim. Seated Liberty (1837-1891): Full figure of Liberty seated on rock holding shield and liberty pole. Check for stars around obverse (1838-1860) or "UNITED STATES OF AMERICA" legend (1860-1891). Arrows at date indicate 1853-1855 or 1873-1874. Barber (1892-1916): Liberty head facing right wearing Phrygian cap with laurel wreath. "LIBERTY" on headband. Reverse shows wreath enclosing "ONE DIME." Mercury/Winged Liberty (1916-1945): Liberty wearing winged cap (often mistaken for Roman god Mercury). Reverse shows fasces (bundle of rods) with olive branch and "ONE DIME." Roosevelt (1946-2026): Profile portrait of Franklin D. Roosevelt facing left. Reverse shows torch flanked by olive branch and oak branch.

The easiest way to identify a silver dime is to check the edge of the coin. Silver dimes (1796-1964): Have a uniform silver color on the edge with no visible copper. These dimes are composed of 90% silver and 10% copper throughout. Clad dimes (1965-2026): Show a visible copper stripe running through the center of the edge. These have a copper core sandwiched between copper-nickel cladding layers. Exception: 1965-1967 Special Mint Set (SMS) dimes are clad despite being from the silver era. You can also identify silver dimes by year: any dime dated 1964 or earlier (except SMS issues) is 90% silver. As of January 2026, a silver dime's melt value is approximately $1.50-$2.00, so even worn silver dimes are worth keeping. The weight is also slightly different: silver dimes weigh 2.5 grams, while clad dimes weigh 2.268 grams, though this difference requires a precise scale to detect. The "ring test" (tapping the coin and listening for tone) can also help, as silver dimes produce a higher-pitched, clearer ring than clad dimes.

Third-party grading is recommended if your dime meets any of these criteria: 1. Value above $100: For dimes worth more than $100 in raw condition, grading by PCGS or NGC typically pays for itself through increased marketability and buyer confidence. 2. Key dates: Any 1916-D Mercury, 1894-S Barber, Carson City Seated Liberty, or pre-1810 dime should be professionally authenticated and graded. Counterfeits and alterations are common for these dates. 3. Suspected errors: If you believe you have a 1982 No P, 1968/1970/1983 No S Proof, or overdate variety, get it authenticated before selling. 4. High grade potential: For Mercury and Roosevelt dimes, if the coin appears to have "Full Bands" (complete separation of horizontal bands on fasces/torch) and minimal wear, grading can significantly increase value. A common date Mercury dime in MS68 FB can be worth 100x more than an MS65 non-FB example. 5. For insurance/estate purposes: Graded coins are easier to insure and value for estate planning. Do NOT grade: Common date circulated coins worth less than $10, modern clad dimes (unless error or proof), or damaged coins. Grading costs $20-$100+ depending on service level and turnaround time.

The 1975 No S Roosevelt Dime is one of the most valuable modern U.S. coins, with only 2 known specimens. These have sold for $450,000-$506,250 at auction. CRITICAL CLARIFICATION: The 1975 No S is a PROOF coin found only in sealed 1975 Proof Sets from the San Francisco Mint. It is NOT a business strike you can find in circulation. Regular 1975 Philadelphia dimes (which naturally have no mint mark) are worth only 10 cents. The 1975 No S proof error occurred when proof dies were used without the "S" mint mark punch. These coins have distinctive mirror-like fields and sharp strikes characteristic of proof coinage. If you find a 1975 dime in your pocket change without a mint mark, it is a normal Philadelphia business strike, not the valuable proof error. To have a genuine 1975 No S, you would need to have inherited or purchased an unopened 1975 Proof Set and found the error coin inside. Both known specimens are in PR68 grade and accounted for by PCGS and NGC registries.

Yes, the 1982 No P Roosevelt Dime is valuable and can realistically be found in circulation. Unlike the proof-only "No S" errors, the 1982 No P was actually released into general circulation. In 1982, the Philadelphia Mint accidentally used dies without the "P" mint mark (which had been added to dimes in 1980). This resulted in business strike dimes that were missing the mint mark. Values: Circulated examples: $100-$200. Uncirculated examples (MS60-MS65): $225-$1,500. Higher grades (MS67+) can reach several thousand dollars. How to identify: Look for a 1982 dime with absolutely NO mint mark on the obverse (front) above the date. Normal 1982 dimes have a small "P" in this location. The 1982-D (Denver mint) and 1982-S (proof) are not errors. Availability: While not common, the 1982 No P can still be found in circulation, pocket change, or bank rolls. It's worth checking any 1982 dimes you encounter. This is one of the few modern error coins that retains significant value and is actually findable by the average person. Authentication by PCGS or NGC is recommended for examples in uncirculated condition to maximize value when selling.

"Full Bands" (FB) is a special designation given to Mercury and Roosevelt dimes that exhibit exceptional strike quality. On the reverse of these dimes, the fasces (bundle of rods) or torch has horizontal bands holding it together. These bands are the highest point of the reverse die and often show weakness due to worn dies or insufficient striking pressure. PCGS Full Bands (FB): Requires complete, unbroken separation between the upper and lower horizontal bands with no metal bridging. NGC Full Torch (FT): More stringent standard requiring band separation PLUS clear definition of vertical lines on the torch. NGC's standard is stricter than PCGS. Why it matters: The FB/FT designation can increase a coin's value by 10-100x, even on common dates. For example, a 1945 Philadelphia Mercury dime in MS65 (no FB) is worth ~$30. The same coin in MS68+ FB is worth $96,000 because sharp strikes from 1945 dies are virtually unique. The 1945 dies were notoriously worn, making Full Bands specimens extremely rare. Impact on collecting: Many collectors now focus exclusively on FB/FT examples, creating a bifurcated market. Non-FB coins, even in high grades, can be difficult to sell. This phenomenon has fundamentally changed how Mercury and Roosevelt dimes are valued and collected, elevating strike quality to equal or greater importance than numerical grade.

Realistically findable and valuable:1982 No P ($100-$1,500) — Check for missing mint mark on 1982 dimes. Silver Roosevelt dimes (1946-1964) — Check edge for solid silver (no copper stripe); worth $1.50-$2+ for melt value. 2009-P and 2009-D — Lower mintage, worth $1-$5 in nice condition. Worn Mercury dimes (1916-1945) — Occasionally found; worth $1-$3 for silver content. NOT findable in circulation (common misconceptions):1975 No S Proof ($450K-$506K) — Proof Set only; normal 1975 Philadelphia dimes (no mint mark) are worth 10¢. 1968, 1970, 1983 No S Proofs — Proof Set only. 1996-W ($15-$50) — Mint Set only; while technically possible, finding one in change is statistically improbable. 1916-D Mercury, 1894-S Barber, Carson City Seated Liberty — These are rare collector coins; you will not find them in circulation. What to look for: Check edges of all dimes for silver (no copper stripe visible). Examine 1982 dimes for missing "P" mint mark. Keep any pre-1965 dimes (silver content). Save any dimes in exceptional uncirculated condition from recent years. Be wary of sellers claiming to have found ultra-rare proof errors in pocket change — these claims are almost always fraudulent.